Birmingham Alabama

May 13-15

Birmingham, AL

A.G. Gaston (right) in front of his motel with R.A. Hester. City of Birmingham Archives

Arthur George Gaston died in 1996 with a net worth of $130 million. He was an innovator from the beginning, first earning some cash by letting the neighborhood kids ride his tire swing in exchange for their buttons, which the children's parents would buy back from him. As a young adult, he was a miner in Birmingham and provided lunches and burial insurance to his coworkers.

Gaston opened a business school, a funeral home, a savings and loan, and the A.G. Gaston Motel, which was listed in the Green Book. While he generally laid low to keep out of conflict with white society, he did provide financial assistance to the Civil Rights movement, and opened his motel to activists in the early 60's.

Dr. King stayed there during the Children's Crusade in 1963, a march in which children left school to walk downtown and talk with the mayor about segregation in Birmingham. Bull Connor, "Public Safety" officer, stopped the marches by using fire hoses and police dogs against the students. Here is the National Park Service narrative about the Motel and why it is part of the Birmingham Civil Rights National Monument.

The events of the Children's Crusade led to the arrest of Dr. King. Gaston's Motel was bombed; two devices exploded near Dr. King's room. Four months later, on September 15, 1963, four Klan members killed four girls and injured 14 others. The four who died were Addie Mae Collins, Cynthia Wesley, Carole Robertson, and Denise McNair. Addie Mae's sister, Sarah, was partially blinded in the explosion. 

Gaston put up $160,000 bond for Dr. King.

A postcard from the Gaston Motel

2019 unveiling of A.G. Gaston Boulevard signs at the Gaston Motel. Bham Now

Gaston Motel renovations underway during my visit. The firm completing the renovation is A.G. Gaston Construction.

A.G. Gaston Building, right across the street from the Motel. I love this building.

More about Birmingham's people and industry

Hosea Hudson was an ironworker, and organizer, and a member of the Communist Party. He also sang bass in the L&N Quartet. He grew up as a Georgia sharecropper and worked in Atlanta and Nashville before heading to New York City to train with the Communist Party USA. Hudson settled in Birmingham as a WPA worker, joining the United Steelworkers of America during WWII. Ultimately, he was fired and blacklisted because of his communist affiliations. Birmingham Mayor Richard Arrington designated February 26, 1980 as "Hosea Hudson Day". Nell Irvin Painter worked with Hudson on her biography of him, The Narrative of Hosea Hudson: The Life and times of a Black Radical.  Hudson wrote his own book in 1972 entitled Black Worker in the Deep South: A Personal Record.  

Sloss Furnaces

Sloss Furnaces used Black workers for the manual jobs in the plant, and whites for managerial roles. It also used convict leasing, a continuance of the system of slavery that was profitable for businesses and for local governments. The company had its own prison system. Alabama was the last state in the Union to do away with convict leasing in 1928, although many counties in the South continued to use the system. Sloss was segregated, with separate bath houses, separate time clock areas, and separate company picnics.

And some food

I picked up a catfish sandwich and fried green tomatoes at Green Acres Cafe. Delicious.

More reading

Black Titan: A.G. Gaston and the Making of a Black American Millionaire, Carol Jenkins

Audio and Video

A.G. Gaston Episode of Driving the Green Book, Alvin Hall and Janee Woods Weber.

A video piece on Gaston's businesses and his support of the Civil Rights movement. 

A video piece on Black workers at Sloss Furnaces.

Direct Action and Activist Discord; Birmingham, AL

May 13-15, Birmingham

I'm doing this trip backwards--that is, I'm doing it the opposite way the arrows show in the guide book. I suppose there's no real wrong way to do this, but it's working for me this way. Starting off with Little Rock was chronologically correct, but of course next I went to Memphis, and the assassination of Dr. King (1968). What Memphis gave me, though, was some familiarity with the leaders and activists I was to meet over and over as I went from Birmingham to Montgomery, to Selma, and finally Jackson, MS, and the Delta.

In Birmingham, a few things came together for me: a prominent part of Green Book, the Freedom Rides (1960-1961), and Dr. King's Letter from a Birmingham Jail (1963). If you haven't ever read King's Letter, set aside a few minutes for it. He was jailed in Birmingham for 'parading without a permit'. He wrote the letter on scraps of paper that were smuggled in to him.

Most of us know that Dr. King's strategy was one of non-violence. Not everyone in the movement agreed with that strategy (Kwame Ture was one), but everyone who took part in direct action committed to following non-violence without exception. They were even trained through role-playing to endure violence and humiliating acts against them. King talks about this commitment in his letter. Written in 1963, after the Montgomery Bus Boycott that he was asked to lead in 1955, and after the Freedom Rides (1960-61). With years of experience in both direct action and negotiating with political and law enforcement leadership, Dr King had seen the pattern of tactics used by segregationists and he lays them out in the letter. 

Dr. King's letter could have been written by someone from today's Black Lives Matter protests.  He mentions the following, all of which are present in today's discourse about BLM direct actions:

• City leadership's objection to 'outsiders coming in'
• City leadership insisting on negotiations, which King's movement has done, but leadership did not keep their promises.
• Being told to wait, for any reason. This 'right time' argument is one we see most frequently after mass shootings now, as those against gun control come out and say that now is not the 'right time' to talk about gun control.
• Black people are dying while city leadership keeps moving the goal posts. In short this is a feature of respectability politics, and if you're a supporter of justice movements, it's easy to fall for this argument--you may be the white moderate that Dr. King is talking about.
• City leaders and police calling any protest an 'unlawful assembly' to violently shut down non-violent protests.
• Creating laws or regulations that criminalize or ban first amendment activities.

The 'unlawful assembly' label is applied quickly today, but unequally for different groups.

The BLM protests in Seattle and Portland in the summer of 2020 were quickly labeled by police as 'unlawful assembly', warnings were given that non-lethals would be used if protesters did not disperse. The next thing that would happen is police would begin using tear gas, flash bangs, and then form a line and forcefully and quickly shove protesters back while continuing to use tear gas. Having been in the crowd for a number of these, the last time was enough for me to quit direct action and join a research group instead. 

Unlike the BLM protests, white nationalist groups like the Proud Boys were protected by law enforcement during their protests, and any counter protesters with an anti-racist bent were the target of both law enforcement and the white nationalist group. Oregon's Statesman talks about this disparity, and a Washington Post piece on the teen who shot and killed two BLM protesters and whose attempt to surrender for the killings was ignored by police echo the events of the 1960's direct action events.

Did you lose focus?

The narrative that was put forth by the police--then and now--was that protesters had become violent or begun destroying property. Whether that was true or not, the protesters were considered 'wrong', and government officials did not back down, but rather tightened restrictions. The focus had now become about tactics, and how the protesters behaved. And hey presto, the issue of police brutality against Black Americans, segregation, or voting rights was in the background. Be aware that if you're arguing about what tactics protesters are using, you're missing the point. Go back and remind yourself of the issue being highlighted by the protest and focus on that. Property cannot be the victim of violence, but when property damage occurs during protests, it is often labeled 'violence'. 

We know now that the story of the civil rights protests often framed the protesters in a bad light. The same thing is happening now. We also know that in many cases, law enforcement have committed violent, criminal acts against Black Americans and have lied about it, then and now. Police body cams and bystander video have verified this, as with the murder of George Floyd. It's important to understand why Colin Kaepernick took a knee during the national anthem, and for us to refocus on the issues with family and friends. Each one of us has an obligation to bend that arc of the moral universe.

More Reading

The Rise of Respectability Politics, Frederick C. Harris, Dissent Magazine

Stop Hustling Black Death, Imani Perry, The Cut. 

Letter from a Birmingham Jail, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.

Why MLK was Jailed in Birmingham, Lily Rothman, Time Magazine

FBI Files on Freedom Riders

Note that even though Albert Boutwell (shown above) won the Mayoral election, Birmingham's "Bull" Connor refused to give up his office until directed to do so by the Supreme Court of Alabama.  Connor was the face of institutional racism, with many atrocities against Black residents. He famously told white supremacists they had "fifteen or twenty minutes before I show up" when the Freedom Riders came to Birmingham. You can read about that here.

Canton Freedom House, Canton Mississippi

A note about pictures throughout this blog: not all of these will be great! That's because my main focus is hearing from the people who are sharing their stories. In most cases, I take these to capture the information on plaques, or to help me remember all I've seen.

May 21, 2021

Canton Freedom House is about ten miles outside of Jackson, MS. It's a civil rights museum that shrinks the decades between the Freedom Summer and today. This is a place that was the headquarters for the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE), and was also used by the Student Non-Violent Coordinating Committee (SNCC, pronounced "snick"). 

George and Rembert Washington 

George and Rembert Washington are pictured above in front of the store they owned and ran. They also owned the building across the street, which became the Freedom House. Like many who were active in the civil rights movement across the south, the Washingtons' business and buildings were attacked, and Mr. Washington was arrested and fined for 'offenses' like trash-burning.

The plaque above details the Washingtons' involvement in the movement, and some of the consequences of it. the notice below details Mr. Washington's arrests and fines, and some of the violent acts directed at them. One of the curators explained that they learned that putting chicken wire over the windows stopped molotov cocktails from breaking windows and setting the building on fire. The chicken wire had saved them from numerous attacks.

The Freedom Summer was in 1964, with its focus mainly on registering voters in the South. Poll taxes, literacy tests, intimidation, violence, and straight up murder were some of the tactics that Southern whites used to keep Black voters away from the polls. Only 7 percent of Black Mississippians were registered--the lowest level in the nation.

The formation of the Mississippi Freedom Democratic Party was also a focus of the Freedom Summer agenda, along with the establishment of Freedom Schools. The Freedom House in Canton is the only such place that has survived, and its curators, who were young teens at the time, remember the activities, the comings and goings of Dr. King, James Meredith (he integrated University of Mississippi), Fannie Lou Hamer, James Farmer, Kwame Ture (Stokely Carmichael), and others.

During my visit, curator Wesley Rushing told me the personal story of moving to Canton when he was about eleven. Up until then, his family had been sharecroppers on a plantation in the Delta. Because the landowner cheated the farmers, they always 'owed' the owner money at the end of each year. The plantation had a creek running around it, and there was only one way on and off--right past the owner's house. So they couldn't just move without paying what was 'owed'--$900. The family borrowed the money from friends in Canton, paid the owner, and moved off the plantation. 

This is a common sharecropper's story, and many sharecroppers, like Fannie Lou Hamer, were evicted from their homes and what little livelihood they had when they registered to vote, or took part in any of the rights activities. Just outside of Selma, civil rights workers built a tent city for sharecroppers who had been evicted after taking part in marches. The National Park Service has some personal stories here.

Wesley Rushing said he never finished high school because working as a sharecropper meant he could only attend school in December and January, when there was less work to be done. He was so far behind in school, he wouldn't have graduated until his early twenties, and he was already being badly taunted by schoolmates. He went to work in a steel mill and retired with a good salary.

Lennon Jones, Public Service Hero (Arkansas)

 Little Rock, AR State Capitol

May 8, 2021

Just a brief recognition of long-term public service hero Lennon Jones. He appears here in the two 'class photos' that record his span of service: 1991-2021. He's still there! He is the Properties and Facilities Manager at the Arkansas State Legislature. I hope your retirement account is bursting. Yes, this means I looked through decades of class photos of this legislature. It was interesting. In the very early days, they included children, pages, and spouses.

A Carport is Many Things

May 20, 2021

Jackson, Mississippi

Visit to Medgar and Myrlie Evers' Home

Former home of my grandparents in Lancaster, Ohio. Built 1959.

My grandparents' house in Lancaster, Ohio had a carport. None of the many homes (over 10 of them?) I lived in as a child ever had one, so their carport was a unique little adventure when our family would visit during the summer. It was adjacent to their neighbor's carport, but was about four feet lower, so there was a little wall that gave the space an even cozier feeling.

My grandpa used to smoke his pipe out there after dinner, sitting on the low wall, with his foot up on the milking stool. I loved the smell of the pipe smoke, the warmth of the summer evening, and the fireflies. It's different than hanging out in the driveway, which would be weird. For many people, it's like an outdoor living room. The acoustics are different, and you can stand out there during a belligerent midwestern rainstorm and feel safe from potential danger. This is how one should feel in their own home, or that of a beloved family member, right? 

Daisy Gatson Bates and L.C. Bates home. Built 1955.

Daisy Gatson Bates' Little Rock home had a carport, too. At her home, she received bullets in the mail, harassing phone calls, and white supremacists regularly threw rocks through her windows. When she was a young child, her mother was raped and killed by three white men. Home wasn't a safe place for Mrs. Bates or her mother, Millie Riley. Mrs. Bates was the President of the Arkansas NAACP, and critical support to the Little Rock Nine.

Medgar and Myrlie Evers' home. Built 1956.

When I stood in Medgar and Myrlie Evers' carport this evening, I felt a similar serenity, coziness, and shielded safety that I had felt in my grandparents' carport. The Evers' carport had muffled acoustics, too. The neighborhood was quiet. Yet the Evers family didn't feel safe and in fact weren't safe in their home. Mr. Evers insisted that the children's mattresses be placed directly on the floor so that they were less likely to be hit if someone shot at the house. He did drills with them to prepare them for shootings or bombings. 

Medgar Evers was the NAACP's first field secretary. He was shot to death in his carport on June 12, 1963. He was initially refused medical attention at the hospital, which was for whites only. He was buried in Arlington National Cemetery. He was a 37 year old father of three.

Putting Pieces Together: Pop Culture is a Teaching Tool

Memphis

May 11-13

View of the Lorraine's classic sign
with the motel in the background

The wreath on the balcony is a replica of the one placed
 there after Dr. King's assassination.

The Lorraine got me started.

Popular culture can be a good teaching tool. Take Watchmen. I learned a lot about the Green Book, I learned about the Tulsa Massacre, I recognized Emmett Till in the story, and felt the terror of a sundown town. There is probably plenty I missed. Here's a link from BET going over some of the history covered. 

Likewise, hearing about the Lorraine Motel on Driving the Green Book sparked my interest in learning more about trying to travel and move about the country as a Black person in America. We see only some of what goes on today. Driving the Green Book gives you the details that fill out the truth of taking a trip prior to 1970 in the U.S.

Pack all your food because you won't be able to buy any on the road. Bathrooms? Hotels? Gas? Good luck. Travel for Black Americans was dangerous enough during Jim Crow, and without the Green Book, it would have been impossible. The book was filled with businesses that would serve Black customers. Imagine putting that together in a time when there was not only no internet, but many people did not have telephones. Who better to write a book like this that someone with a lot of human contact: Victory Hugo Green, a postman.

The Lorraine is a real place.

The Lorraine, I learned, is not just the last place Dr. King spoke to a crowd. It was a haven for black travelers; a unique endeavor built in the 1920's and bought by Loree and Walter Bailey and renamed the Lorraine and began serving Black travelers in 1945. It wasn't just a welcoming place for travelers. It was a place for Black performers and athletes to stay when visiting or performing in Memphis.

In April 1968, Dr. King was visiting Memphis as a part of the recently-launched (November 1967) Poor People's Campaign, an attempt to focus on economic inequality and poverty. He had also been supporting and strategizing with the AFSCME Sanitation workers weeks before, delivering his "Mountaintop" speech to them on April 3rd. He was assassinated the next day.

Scatter the pieces

Many of us have learned just a few things about the Civil Rights Movement, Jim Crow, and/or slavery. Some of us vaguely remember something about 'states rights'. That's actually what I was taught the Civil War was about. Neither the concept nor the mechanics of states rights made sense to me as a fifteen-year-old. As I've said, my parents never talked about this time. (It was all Nixon, Nixon, Nixon in our house. I remember that much)

Pop culture helped me put some pieces together: the Green Book, the Lorraine Motel, and Dr. King's assassination. Each day on this trip, I gather more threads, more connections. How many civil rights museums have I been to at the time of this writing? At least four? And yet I learn many new things at each one. The picture becomes clearer, the lines of connection thicker. It starts to make sense as a continuum. The line from slavery to today is clear and the behaviors of intimidation, oppression, violence, and lawlessness on the part of white people against Black Americans is loud and impossible to ignore.

Why didn't I know these things? Because if you scatter the pieces far enough, you can't see the patterns and connections. Which means the chance that someone will uncover your crimes is lower. lack of knowledge about the machine keeps the machine running. I'll have more about these connecting pieces in other posts.

Continuity of today.

Today, the Poor People's Campaign is alive and well. It is spearheaded by Reverend Dr. William Barber II, who is an inspiring and empathetic speaker whether you are religious or not. The platform of the Poor People's Campaign may sound familiar to you from Bernie Sanders' campaign.

Americans Who Tell the Truth is a beautiful website that makes the people who make a difference come to life. You can check out activists and leaders by sortable categories (including centuries!) on the linked site.

Some examples of my current heroes are:

Bree Newsome Bass, the hero who removed the confederate flag from the State House in South Carolina.

Alicia Garza, who began the Black Lives Matter movement in 2013 with Patrisse Cullors and Opal Tometi after the murder of Trayvon Martin.

Other Resources and Info

What did I see in Memphis?

Lorraine Motel: Quality accommodations for Black people, civil rights leaders planned and strategized here, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated on the balcony here. It is now part of the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis.

W.C. Handy House: Handy was the "Father of the Blues". His bio is linked, and fascinating.

Beale Street: historically Black business district

Ida B. Wells was a journalist and activist; she owned and ran two newspapers in Memphis. Please read her bio. She has many accomplishments.

Recommended Reading

Labor Power is the Key to Racial Equity, Thomas Geoghegan, The New Republic

How Black Activists Shaped the Labor Movement, Kim Kelly, Teen Vogue

The Negro and the Labor Unions, Booker T. Washington, The Atlantic

W.C Handy's House. So cute!

Arkansas National Guard Prevent School Desegregation - 1957 | Today in ...

The Little Rock 9 Began as 200

May 8-May 11, Little Rock, Arkansas

Little Rock, AR qualified for the Civil Rights Trail when government officials, supported by overt and covert tactics used by Little Rock residents, refused to allow and violently opposed integration of the Little Rock school system. 

In Context

It's 1957, two years after the murder of 14 year-old Emmett Till. No one was ever held accountable for his murder. It's also two years after Rosa Parks' bus ride in Montgomery, AL, which sparked sit-ins and freedom rides all over the south.

Legal precedent has been set by the U.S. Supreme Court in Brown v. Board (1954), which struck down 'separate but equal', finding that separate educational facilities are inherently unequal. It was followed by what is known as Brown II, which required desegregation of schools 'with all deliberate speed'. And yes, that language was vague enough to cause glacially-paced planning where desegregation could be pushed off into future decades. 

200 Black students filed to enroll in Little Rock Central High School

After Brown II, the NAACP worked to register students all over the south in whites-only schools. Little Rock school board decided to desegregate and wanted to start with kindergarten, adding a grade level each year. Whites complained about the plan and fought to have integration begin with high school. Two hundred Black students filed to enroll. You can imagine the machinations that took place for that number to be whittled down to about 90. Out of those 90, how do we end up with just 9? Intimidation, violence, and threats caused Black parents to withdraw their students. 

On the morning of September 4th, there were 10 students getting ready for school, but only 9 attended. The tenth student was withdrawn after their father was threatened with the loss of his job. 

Daisy Gatson Bates

Daisy Bates was the President of the Arkansas NAACP, and she spearheaded the registration effort for students. She also opened her house to the students as a place to study and get support at the end of each school day. 

On the night before the first day of school, Mrs Bates was told by the school that no parents should bring the students to school because it might 'create trouble'. She decided to accompany the students herself, and telephoned each family to let them know. One student, Elizabeth Eckford, did not have a phone. Mrs. Bates intended to go to her house in the morning and collect her, but she forgot. 

The picture at the top of this post is Elizabeth Eckford walking down the street towards the school alone. She's wearing a dress she made herself because at that time, Black people could not use fitting rooms--you would have to try on your clothing at home and take your chances, or make it yourself. Members of the crowd spit on Ms. Eckford and her dress. She tried to enter the school, but the National Guard had been given instructions by Governor Faubus to prevent the students from entering the school. The entire crowd of white people AND the National Guard were there to prevent nine Black students from attending school.

Needless to say that was not the Little Rock Nine's first day of school. It wasn't until September 25th, when Eisenhower sent the Army down to escort the students to school that they finally had their first day.

Of course that wasn't the end of the story. Bullying, violence, and intimidation against the Black students continued on a daily basis. White students broke glass and put it on the shower room floor. Then they would turn the lights out when the Black students were showering so they had to pick their way through the glass in the dark. Students would light notebook paper on fire and throw it over the bathroom stall door at Black students. Some were too traumatized to continue at Little Rock. 

In May 1958, Ernest Green, succeeded in being the first Black graduate of Central.

Little Rock Nine

Melba Patillo Beals

Elizabeth Eckford

Ernest Green

Gloria Ray Karlmark

Carlotta Walls Lanier

Jefferson Thomas

Minnijean Brown Trickey

Terrence J. Roberts

Thelma Mothershed-Wair

Want to know more?

A link to the National Park Service site for Central

Here's a film about Daisy Bates. PBS, 54 minutes

Additional photos from the Little Rock desegregation can be seen here. Note that there are a couple of things in the photos that are happening today: There is one of a boy holding a sign that says "Race Mixing is Communism"--today, some republicans like to label racial equity and anti-police brutality protests and initiatives as 'communist' or 'socialist'. The confederate flag was and still is used as a symbol of racial hatred and segregation. These flags were not carried at Little Rock High School as a matter of 'heritage'. Lastly, there is an attack on a member of the media. Yes, he is Black, but we know from records of that day that other members of the media were attacked as well.

This is me greeting Orval Faubus' bust in the Arkansas State Capitol.

Crowd Sourced Public Art

May 7, 2021

Amarillo, TX to Little Rock, AR
Miles Today: 613
Total miles: 2,781
Gas in OK: $2.79
Roadkill: Two armadillos, one (possibly two) tortoises, one deer*

Happy Throwback Thursday

This is the famed Cadillac Ranch, in the freakishly flat and windy wilds of Amarillo, TX. I happened to notice on the map that it was close to the hotel I stayed in so I decided to head over before gassing up for Arkansas on May 7--yes I've got blog posts stacking up.

Why is it?

Why indeed. It is allegedly an 'art installation', which in America means that of course there will be some shopping available on site. In this case, it's cans of spray paint. Now, in many cities you can't buy spray paint if you're a minor. Why? Because you might make something look better---------------------->   

But seriously, I had some thoughts about this whole enterprise when I saw it. So I suppose that means it is art, since it 'evoked' something in me. Anyone who knows me knows that it's hard for something to NOT evoke something in me. I was disappointed that the cars are no longer recognizable as cadillacs. At some future point, they may not even look like cars anymore.

If you think about it, though, when you half-bury about twelve cars by the side of the road, you might expect that something will happen to them if you won't or can't protect it. In that case, you may as well just give in to the inevitable and even sanction it by setting up a spray paint point of sale.

I think there's something healthy about crowd-sourced art like this because there are so many activities that used tp be normal, everyday pursuits that have now become things that we watch, not things that we do. We all have the ability to sing, dance, and do art. I could even learn to make a basket (like, I mean dunk one, not weave one. I have woven one) if I practice. I am learning to dance. I will not be good at it, but it is not an undoable thing. Many of us think singing, dancing, acting, playing sports, and art are for artists, singers, dancers, etc. But those things are for everyone. Those of you who live in vegan group homes know what I'm talking about.

My favorite piece of crowd-sourced art is Seattle's gum wall. It is as gross as you want to believe it is. I think it's lovely. It is created by the artist's own teeth and hands, using their very saliva. So personal. Think about what the artist puts into this creation beyond just that: color of the gum, its placement on the wall, and even the shape the artist pressures it to take. 

The gum wall is big. There's plenty to assess when you contribute, and each artist does it differently. It's a form of control; you can leave your mark for others to see. It also feels a bit naughty because you're not supposed to stick your gum on the wall AND gum is gross! It's been in your mouth!

The gum wall is control and surrender at the same time. Once your damp nugget has been placed, it's up to the fates whether it will remain visible or remain there at all. Will someone cover it up? Maybe. And every couple of decades, they clean that wall (I mean, remove the installation).

There is a form of art called 'social painting', and no, it doesn't involve wine. This is something that I've done when I was in the Waldorf crowd. I liked it so much, I brought it to the Montessori crowd later. It's done with a group of at least six people and uses wet on wet watercolor. There is a paper for each participant, and the leader of the session will give instructions--you may be doing a landscape, or just painting colors onto the paper. You start on your own paper, and then when the leader says it's time, you rotate to your neighbor's painting.

What's that? You have feelings about someone painting on your painting? Interesting. Well, wait until six or twenty people do it. This form of art tells us a lot about ourselves and how we work with or steamroll over others. If you can do this exercise and notice what comes up as you do it, you can learn quite a bit about yourself and about what your find hard when working with others, when sharing. Are you trying to stand out or blend in? Do you think you need to improve everyone's work? Do you just make small marks around the margin? 

After all this talk about how much I love group art, why was I so mad when I saw how shitty these cars looked? Maybe because I was looking at the whole mess, instead of looking more closely at what people had done. Where were the beautiful details? You had to get closer. It did just look like a big mess if you tried to take it all in as a whole. The shape of the cars is all you could really get with a wide view. 

That's really the story of this trip. I've seen the whole mess of racism, the sham of rights, of equality. When you look at the whole it's a mess. But if I go closer and look at the details, I will get information about what works and what doesn't. From a policy perspective, these are the stories of impact that policy makers don't learn (#notallpolicymakers). You have to read The Color of Law to know just some of what's wrong with planning, zoning, and banking practices. You have to read The New Jim Crow to understand why our criminal legal system doesn't work and how it is racist. When you study the problems and solutions, you can pick up your paintbrush, gum, or paint can and get to work making group art. Find one place to beautify. Watch how you work. Check with others about your impact. But study. And then work.

In the above picture, I have unwittingly added to the art installation by matching the tire exactly. Sometimes things work out even if you're a hack.

*This is not a complete list of all roadkill between Amarillo and Little Rock; it is only roadkill that I noticed.

A Policy Rant: Little Rock Board of Directors will Write a Strongly-Worded Letter Annually

Section 5. Notification of Federal and State Officials.  

(a) Beginning three (3) months after the enactment of this article, the Clerk of the City shall execute the mandatory and ministerial duty of sending letters on an annual basis to the members of the United States House of Representatives whose District includes the corporate limits of the City, both Arkansas United States Senators, any Representative or Senator in the Arkansas General Assembly whose district includes  all or a portion of the corporate limits of the City, the Governor of the State of Arkansas, and the President of the United States. 
(b) This letter shall state, "The City of Little Rock, Arkansas, has passed an ordinance to de-prioritize adult marijuana offenses, where the marijuana is intended for personal use, and requests that the governments of the United States of America and the State of Arkansas take immediate steps to enact similar laws.

We Do Entertainment and Fast Food

May 6, 2021

Albuquerque, NM to Amarillo, TX
Miles Today: 301
Total miles: 2,469
Gas in NM: $2.79

 What we're good at

Here I am with my friend, cardboard Gus Fring. One thing I learned from living overseas is that the major influences in and exports from the U.S. are entertainment and fast food. I can't say we're good at either one of them, but we are prolific. One thing we are very good at that some of the countries I've visited were lacking in is construction safety. And we probably have our propensity for litigation to thank for that.
The 'real' world of American culture is heavily influenced by the entertainment industry and pop culture, and nothing makes our dreams come true like being able to see where our favorite characters made meth and dissolved bodies.

It happened to Albuquerque

Anyway, Albuquerque was lucky enough to be the setting for Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul. Some are unhappy about that, because what generally comes along with fan worship is a sense of entitlement and ownership of the places and people from our favorite stories. This attitude leads to a lack of privacy for some, and can include people throwing pizza onto the roof of your garage. 

Let's monetize this

It's not unusual to cash in on this type of craving people have to try to make their favorites come to life. It's something I spent a fair amount of time judging and poo-pooing. But I guess I've been back in the U.S. long enough to dive in and try to grab the fantasy just like other fans. And my visit to the Breaking Bad store was everything I wanted and more. 

They had a museum with fan art and bona fide props. I dove right in. There were t-shirts and aprons and shot glasses and coasters, mugs, masks, monopoly, and blue rock candy. It was nuts, and I spent fifty bucks. But what I also got was a man behind the counter (the owner) who shared my enthusiasm for the fantasy I was chasing. I asked him about one scene that was filmed in front of a yellow wall. I wanted to see that wall.  He knew exactly what I was talking about, and told me that it exists, that it is blocked off, and that they recreated the wall for filming somewhere else because there wasn't enough room to get the shots they wanted.

Have an A-1 day every day

Yes, you can take a tour of the sites in the show in a crappy RV. I absolutely would have done this if I had known about it in advance. One location I did go to was the site of the A-1 car wash. I thought I might actually get my car washed there, as it was pretty darned dusty and buggy, but I didn't want to bust my fantasy bubble by having a mundane interaction with someone who definitely would not be Flynn.

I took a picture from far out in the parking lot, and there was another fan doing the same thing. I shouted over to him, "All I need is for someone to tell me to have an A-1 day!" So he did, and I wished him the same. That connection to a real person was facilitated by our interest in something that didn't exist. But the last year (or five) has created enough distortion that 'reality' slips, making room for fiction; this fiction has been necessary for many of us to contend with reality. We've been forced to release the grip a little. 

In A Canyon, Not A Cavern

 Grand Canyon visit, May 4, 2021

One Canyon, Many Peoples

Above is a graphic of the tribes of the Grand Canyon, which has been home to humans for 13,000 years.

Below is a list of the associated tribes of the grand canyon, taken from the national park service website (linked above). I've included links to the tribe sites. Each of these websites has COVID-19 information on the landing page, but persevere and take a look beyond that. I've linked to a couple of constitutions also.

• Havasupai Tribe - AZ
• Hopi Tribe - AZ
• Hualapai Tribe - AZ
• Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians - AZ
• Constitution of the Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians of the Kaibab Indian Reservation, Arizona
• Las Vegas Band of Paiute Indians - NV
• Moapa Band of Paiute Indians - NV
• Navajo Nation - AZ
• Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah - UT
• Constitution and other gov't documents
• San Juan Southern Paiute Tribe - AZ
• The Pueblo of Zuni - NM
• Yavapai-Apache Nation - AZ
  

Pandemic Plusses

Zero waiting for horrifically popular destinations like the Grand Canyon; zero crowds when you get there! Peak season for Grand Canyon is June-August, but one would expect crowds in any 'normal' May. Happily, there was no waiting at all to get in, plenty of parking, and very few people. Warned that parking fills by 11 am, I woke up EARLY and arrived around 9:30. (It strikes me that visiting something as beautiful as Grand Canyon National Park and focusing on parking is a very American thing to do.) Less trash! Less noise!

Trade-Offs

Very limited bus service means your choice is driving to outlooks; limited restrooms open; no gift shop/bookstore. Sad about the bookstore, but not the gift shop.

It's QUIET and indescribable

Despite Americans doing their best talking in 'normal tones' (full blast), the canyon was QUIET when the humans zipped it momentarily. I can't describe it and my pictures don't do it justice. It smelled good, it sounded good, and it's nicely kept up. I can't say I approve of the amount of driving within the park, as the views are dependent upon clean air, and clean air in general is just a good idea. I suggest mandatory busses. You're welcome.

Do not be influenced by scarcity issues

Plagued by 'buffet mentality'* and scarcity issues, I noticed myself starting to think that 'more is better' and felt the need to drive to another outlook. Suddenly, a trip that I hadn't even intended on making wasn't good enough and I felt like I should do more and see more. I just let myself notice that thought and decided, heck, I'm sure it's beautiful to drive 44 miles up and back but I can't really justify polluting, and I don't have the energy for potential traffic jams. A beautiful walk on the canyon's rim was enough! I said goodbye to it and continued on to Albuquerque, which I can now spell without any assistance.

*This is a rare condition in which a person (me) feels the need to eat before  going to a buffet or potluck because of an irrational fear that there will not be enough food FOR ME.

Cecil, not Cecile

May 5, 2021 

Flagstaff, to Grand Canyon, Winslow, and Albuquerque, NM
Miles Today: 505 
Total miles: 2,168
Gas in AZ: $3.09
Gas in NM: $2.79

Fairly long day driving, but got some great stops in at the Grand Canyon and in Winslow, AZ. I'll post about the Canyon next, but here's a bit about Winslow, where they have a nice little museum and some good iced coffee.

My Favorite Winslow, AZ Resident

Meet Cecil Creswell, former 'Harvey Girl' who quit the service industry to become a rancher and eventually rustle cattle. She changed her name from Olive to Cecil and began living as a man after spending too many years in an immaculate pinafore. 

Cecil  began her life as a rustler when she stole a bull from a neighbor, coloring it with henna so its owner didn't recognize it for three years. That bull and a couple of stolen cows started Cecil's herd. 

I learned about Cecil today at the Old Trails Museum in Winslow, Arizona. Yes. That Winslow.

The Seat of Government

While most visitors were gathered around the mural on Second Street that commemorates the Eagles'  song Take it Easy, I went through the museum and then sniffed out City Hall. It's a tiny building right by the railway tracks, and the council meets twice a month. 

In case you're interested, here's the city's tax code which imposes lodging and restaurant/bar tax of an additional 2% of the gross income from restaurants, bars, and 'transient' (under 30 days) lodging establishments. These taxes are in place for 20 years, and so far it looks like the council continues to vote for renewal every couple of decades. There's also a one percent tax on the gross income of every business (or person doing business) in the city. The revenue from this tax funds capital improvements in the city, and is something we can't do in Washington state because it isn't permitted by the legislature.

All Mod Cons in Winslow

Winslow is an old railway town, and although nothing remains of the roundhouse, marks of the town's past as a rail hub are still in evidence. Not content with just being a railway town, Winslow also became home to one of the nation's first passenger airports. 

Transcontinental Air Transport (TAT) was the country's first passenger airline, established in Winslow in 1929. Charles Lindbergh was tasked with mapping the routes and designing the airports around the U.S. There's some information about the airport here. TAT later became TWA. 

Grand Canyon Post Next

Some, but not all, of Route 66 still exists

Barstow, CA to Flagstaff, AZ

Miles today: 351

Total miles to date: 1,663

Took I-40 to Flagstaff , AZ today. Drove about 90 miles on Route 66 and would have taken it the whole way if I could because there was no one on it. But you the speed limit is 55 mph and I-40 is 75 mph in most places so I went for speed. I can report that I did not see Large Marge, but I did see the Bagdad Cafe.

Bought my ticket for the Grand Canyon tomorrow. This is an upside to the pandemic, because attendance is down so it will likely be less crowded than normal. I'm not sure where I'll be stopping tomorrow night because I'm not sure how long I'll be enjoying the views tomorrow. Apparently, the park is one of the ten most deadly national parks! What a thrill.